Saturday 2 January 2016

DOWNTOWN KINGSTON: THE REAL JAMAICAN EXPERIENCE

I often say to people that you have not really visited Jamaica unless you have gone to down town Kingston and I am sticking to my words.


When I first visited Jamaica as a student, there were several places that were mentioned in a bleak, dark way because of the crime rate. Downtown Kingston was one. While some persons just asked that you be cautious and vigilant, others rake fear into you as if it something bad always happened there. So when I visited downtown for the first time, I was quite nervous and anxious. I jumped in fear if someone brushed passed me and I tried earnestly to shop very quickly and get out. Two more visits in the bargaining center of Jamaica finally led to a different conclusion. Downtown Kingston has a culture of its own and to me, it is a true representation of the heart of the Jamaican people.

I visited downtown almost every other Saturday for the last 3 years and I enjoyed every experience. The sales are quite good, although quite recently, possibly due to the increase traffic and comfort of persons in downtown, prices have been on the rise or can be described as quite similar to uptown. Still, there are bargains to be had on the streets and even in the stores. Sellers are prepared to give you a discount and to add a little 'brawta' to products that you may buy whether onions, oranges, potatoes etc. Downtown Kingston is indeed one of my favourite places in Jamaica and it is not because I love drama.  I simply love the atmosphere and the culture of the people. Jamaicans know how to hustle and they are not lazy. The streets of downtown will, on a Saturday, be lined with males, females and children just selling clothes and shoes. They will clap their hands, jumped and shout the prices at you as you pass. The atmosphere is filled with shouts of 'undred dollar, come get yo look good pants, sale out etc etc. Stores compete with each other with music and DJs announcing bargains and I just simply love their spiritedness of the people. Downtown has a culture of its own which I truly appreciate. So when my brother visited me recently, I had to take him to downtown Kingston because to me, it is a true depiction of the Jamaican people and their culture. His response was, 'Now this feels like Jamaica'.

Downtown is where you see the strength and joy of the Jamaican people in the midst of their struggles. It is clear that life is quite hard as persons travel on foot with their clothes or use hand carts to go around the town and sell.


Persons sell just about every and anything and do it with great pleasure. Men selling panties and shoes, some selling bag juice, make-up, soap powder, colgate etc and not in any large amount. Often times, you will meet persons only selling one type of item.


These vendors also have to contend with issues relating to use of space. While they wish to sell their goods where the pedestrian traffic is high in areas such as Beckford Street, and will often spread blue tampoline  and lay their items on top, this is an illegal practice and often times they have to take speed when police approaches to avoid losing their goods.


The best vendors are in downtown. You may enter a store and cannot leave without buying something because the persons are willing to drop the price or are just simply good at convincing you to get an item. Sometimes you are walking the street and can only glimpse the goods quickly to prevent them from drawing you in with "Me nar charge yo fi look" because if you get closer to properly examine their items, they will use their tactics to convince you to buy. Indeed, you are not being charged to look.

You can also get your hair, nails and eyebrows done right in the heart of downtown, right on Princess Street. This is where all the fashionistas are and you will recognize them as soon as you see them. Not simply because you will see the service being rendered, but mainly because of the lighter complexion, colourful, complex hairstyles and long eyeslashes and painted nails of these service providers.


Then there is the language fuelled by their strong Kingstonian accent. When a foreigner visits Jamaica, we are often fascinated with the strong Jamaican accent. I remember when I was in high school on the small island of St.Vincent, we were told that we were going to have a Jamaican Literature teacher. We were all excited as Jamaica has some wonderful short stories that we simply loved, but when we were introduce to the teacher and she addressed us, she quickly saw our disappointment. She explained that she was from uptown Jamaica and the people there had a different accent. It was the first time, I learnt about uptown and downtown, but for certain, I was disappointed. That was not a Jamaican accent! Imagine my excitement when I visited downtown Jamaica and I listen to the stress in the names and the words as the downtown Kingstonians speak to each other. I will listen to the men talk and it intrigues me...Soon Forward, Soon Come, eeeeeee, ah that me ah pree, Yea Mon, likkle more. To many Jamaicans, this is normal and they may even avoid it as they rise to high society. However, to foreigners like myself, this is true 'Jamaicanness'. It marks the uniqueness of the Jamaicans from others simply through language. It is a product for tourism development as while some may not understand what is being said, they are still fascinated by the Jamaican language. It is strange the little things that are at times taken for granted.


An article like this can never really appreciate the beauty of downtown Kingstown, which is also illustrated in the rich cultural heritage seen in the buildings. So to give you a little glimpse, this article is also fill with pictures and  a shortvideo that I took while in downtown this Christmas season.

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